Mr. M and I met his parents and brother in wine country this weekend to celebrate his parents' 45th wedding anniversary. As dedicated oenophiles, much anticipation and planning went into this quick weekend trip.
We arrived Friday afternoon and made our way up to Napa. We had no plans until dinner, but it was early enough to start our vacation off right by doing a little wine tasting. We decided just to pick a place along the way. I'd been to
Cosentino a couple years back and really enjoyed this friendly, down-to-earth place that makes great wines both in my price range and beyond. So when we saw it, we pulled off the road to do our first tasting. The place was busy, but we still found a place at the long copper bar to taste some of their newest releases. I enjoyed everything we tasted, especially The Poet and the M Coz 2002 and 2003. I honestly think (though I don't begrudge them one bit) that they pour so generously for the tastings in hope that they will get you drunk enough to buy lots of wine or join the wine club. Anyway, it worked for us! And when the purchases had been completed, they poured us even more!!! (I forgot my camera, but here are pics from the web anyway.)

We then went quickly next door to the tasting room housing
Napa Cellars and
Folie a Deux, having been given coupons for free tastings there. These are pretty much everyday wines you can find at home, and though they were good, they didn't compare to the high-end reds we had just been tasting at Cosentino. The only stand-out was the Napa Cellars Chardonnay, which was surprisingly good. I love the trend towards less oak in the California Chardonnays, and this was a tasty step in the right direction.
We drove all the way to the north end of the Valley to Calistoga, where we stayed at the
Meadowlark B&B, the place where my in-laws stayed during a visit in 1988! It was on a beautiful piece of property with mountain views and a quiet mood. They keep huge
Hanoverians that they breed and train on the property - one of which is 17 hands high! Wild turkeys also roam the property, providing some interesting entertainment. The breakfasts here were quite notably delicious.
We dined that evening at
La Toque. La Toque offers only a
5 course fixed price menu for $98, with 2 or 3 choices at each course. Some have compared it to the French Laundry, and though I wouldn't go that far, there were some good dishes. The kitchen sent us out a few treats, one of which was a "foie gras corndog" - you gotta love it. We tasted some very nice fresh kampachi and a hearty warm tomato soup. The scallops were good, and the seared foie gras was excellent, but how can you really screw that up? A few of the courses I felt were rather lackluster (the turbot and the bass). Unfortunately, after tasting at two (liberally pouring) wineries in two hours, I was in no shape to take part in the wine pairings that La Toque is so famous for (some say they're the best in valley for wine pairing with food), so I can't comment on that. Overall, I think I'd spend the money and go see Thomas Keller. What I think did it for me was the rather stuffy and austere mood in the dining room - almost like everyone was so serious about food that they forgot to have fun while they were eating it.
The next morning, we rose for our morning appointment at
Stags' Leap Winery (not to be confused with Stag's Leap Wine Cellars - note the position of the very important apostrophe). It was a gorgeous drive out, and we were ushered into the dining room of a large house for our tasting. There were 9 people including us in the group, and our guide regaled us with the fascinating story of the winery, the grounds, and the families that have lived there. It was nice to actually sit down to taste - much more relaxed. The grounds were gorgeous and quiet - I could have spent hours there. I'm not sure what it is about vineyards that are so relaxing - maybe the orderliness of the rows, the meticulous caretaking that goes on. Whatever it is, I love it.
We tasted some excellent Cabernet at
Silver Oak next, which, due to a recent fire, is holding tastings in a rather unattractive trailer. The wines were still excellent, however - we had the 2002 Napa Valley and the 2003 Alexander Valley. Yum.
We stopped by the
Oakville Grocery to pick up some sandwiches and snacks for lunch. It was crazy crowded, but lunch was great. Of note - they have an excellent olive bar. Also really good spicy salsa and guacamole.
Our next stop was right next door at
Opus One. The winery seems to rise out of the earth like something in a sci-fi movie, and the architecture is modern yet classic at the same time. At $30 per taste, this was a splurge. But we tasted both the '02 and the '03. I am quite sure this was the most high-end wine I've ever put in my mouth. I preferred the '02, but both were fantastic as we sipped them on the upper terrace overlooking the vineyards.


We continued on to
St. Supery. By this time we were all a bit wined-out, but we still managed to enjoy their excellent Sauvignon Blanc, Virtu, and Cabernets.
For dinner that night, we hit
Wappo Bar and Bistro in Calistoga. It was a cozy, small restaurant with a much more relaxed mood and fun atmosphere compared to the evening before - aided particularly by the large
double magnum that a nearby table was polishing off. The menu is quite ethnically varied, which usually makes loud alarm bells go off in my head, but it had come recommended, so I kept an open mind. There was Hawaiian poke, French cassoulet, Moroccan tagines, Thai curry, osso bucco. Hmmm. I took a risk and ordered the poke, which actually was more Mexican in style - with jalapenos and avocados, almost a ceviche, but pretty good. I then ordered a tagine with roasted vegetables, lamb kofte, couscous, and harissa sauce, which was also good.
The next morning, we drove to
Schramsberg for a tour and tasting. Schramsberg is one of the more notable producers of American sparkling wine and is famous for being the bubbly frequently poured at state dinners and important hooplas at the White House. Our tour guide (whose second job is stand-up comedy - no joke) told us the story of the people and the place, keeping us interested and laughing. He led us through the dark Schramsberg caves, where they age their wine for years before releasing it. The caves were dark and cool and just a bit creepy, with cobwebs falling from the ceiling and a heavy air of history hanging about. We ended the tour in a small room of the cave lit with candelabra and a beautiful table set with champagne flutes and the various wines. We did our tastings here in this dramatic setting. We tasted the 2004 Blanc de Blanc, the '99 J Schram, the Brut Rose, and the 2000 Reserve. Was blown away, especially by the J. Schram and the Reserve. This was definitely my favorite place of the weekend, and it's making me rethink my
Veuve Clicquot loyalties.



We had lunch at a forgettable Italian place in Calistoga, with some very basic pizza and pasta. We went on to visit Joseph Phelps, another producer of famous Napa Cabs. Well, if nothing else, this place had some of the most beautiful grounds I've seen. The wines weren't bad either, of course the Cabernet and the stellar Insignia being the highlights. But I think almost anything would taste good while looking at this view.

We ended at
Freemark Abbey, partaking in an unusual vertical tasting of 3 different cabs of different vintages. Also good, but I was out of steam by then.
We did visit
Dean and DeLuca twice while we were there - a place I could browse in for hours at a time. I bought a delicious TK (read: Thomas Keller) Oreo cookie at the bakery, fresh in from Bouchon.
We had the best dinner of the trip that night at
Terra. The dining room walls are hewn stone, giving it a rustic atmosphere, but the mood was festive. Our waiter was very knowledgeable about the menu, taking lots of time to make sure we understood the components of each dish. I chose the hamachi sashimi starter, which was excellent - generous slabs of fresh, flavorful fish dressed lightly in a vinaigrette and garnished with radish and a small green caviar. Beautiful. I also tasted the beef carpaccio, which was very good, and the lobster chowder with sweet corn, which was in the top 5 soups I've ever tasted. Great lobster flavor in the soup, and whole kernels of sweet corn bursting in the mouth. For the entree, I chose (surprise, surprise) the broiled black cod with accompanying shrimp dumplings. It was phenomenal, perfectly cooked. I had a couple glasses of a syrupy chardonnay that complemented the meal very well. Finally, I had the maccha green tea pannacotta with fresh strawberries. Another perfectly executed, interesting, and wonderful course. We had a bottle of 2004 Schramsberg Blanc de Blanc with dessert, toasting mom and dad's 45 years of marriage. A fitting end to a wonderful weekend.