Knife skills

Last night, I decided to take a Knife Skills class offered by The Cooking Studio at the Whole Foods in Belmar. A small group of 10-12 people gathered in the studio kitchen, learning better ways to prepare, chop, dice, and mince things. We prepared garlic, shallots, onions, potatoes, tomatoes, carrots, bell peppers, mushrooms, avocados, and citrus fruit. We then took turns making French omelets with some of the ingredients we had chopped. At the end of the class, we had a meal of omelets, hash browns, and grapefruit sections drizzled with agave nectar.

Overall, it was a decent class, though more geared towards beginners in the kitchen. I did pick up a few helpful hints about chopping onions and deseeding peppers and tomatoes, and I learned how to make a better omelet.

Beat 2 eggs in a small bowl with a tablespoon of water and a pinch of salt and pepper. Heat a tablespoon of clarified butter in a small omelet pan over low to medium heat. Pour the eggs in the pan. Continue to whip air into the eggs using a fork, trying not to disturb the eggs setting at the bottom of the pan too much. Eventually the omelet will be almost cooked through and set. Tease up all the edges of the omelet using a spatula so that it is totally free from the bottom of the pan. Add fillings of your choice to the center. Fold one third of the omelet over the fillings, then turn it over onto a plate (folding the other third over on the bottom as you go). Voila! Light and fluffy omelets.

Speaking of ice cream...

Have you tried the new Haagen Dazs flavor yet? This year, they debuted their new Caramelized Pear and Toasted Pecan ice cream. It's to-die-for. Try it.

The holidays, already?

It's hard to believe that the holidays are just around the corner, especially given the exceptionally warm fall we've had in Denver. Mid-70's at the end of October? Weird. Not that I'm complaining though.

Anyway, we hit Bonnie Brae Ice Cream with some friends last night, and I had a generous scoop of their Pumpkin Pecan. It was fantastic - the wonderful flavor of pumpkin pie with all the spices - but better, without that custardy texture that so many folks (myself excluded) find so unappealing. It was just the thing to get me in the mood for fall and the upcoming holiday season.

Sausage strata

I'd been missing one of my favorite brunch dishes from The Kitchen in Boulder. Lucky for me, the restaurant posts many of its recipes on line. I seemed to have most of the ingredients already at home, so with a few minor modifications, I was on my way.

Here is the recipe as posted. It's a creamy, delicious, savory bread pudding of sorts.

Sausage Strata
[Recipe Serves 6-8]

Ingredients:
3 whole eggs
5 egg yolks
1 pint whole milk
1 pint heavy cream
1 1/2 lb sausage meat (out of casing)
8 slices of rustic white bread
1 1/2 cup gruyere cheese-- grated
2 hand full fresh spinach
Salt and pepper.
Large gratin dish
Instructions:
Take the sausage meat and cook in a sauté pan until cooked.

Mix together eggs, yolks, cream and milk in a bowl. Season with a little salt and pepper. Next, take the gratin dish and start to layer the bread, sausage, spinach and cheese (like you would for lasagna), keeping some cheese for sprinkling over the top.

When you have layered every thing together, pour over the custard and sprinkle the remaining cheese on top. Leave to stand for at least one hour or over night.

Cover with foil and bake in 350º oven for about 1 hour. Check to see that the center is cooked and the custard is set.

Just before serving, put the strata under a broiler until brown. Watch closely so that it does not burn.

I used skim milk rather than whole milk, and the only bread I had at home was 100% whole wheat sandwich bread. I also didn't have any fresh spinach greens, so I used about a half package of frozen spinach that I cooked in the microwave, seasoned with salt, pepper, and nutmeg. I browned some sausage, then layered it with the sandwich bread, spinach, and grated gruyere. I poured the cream/milk/egg mixture over it and let it sit in the fridge for an hour or so. I popped it into the oven, and we had a decadent, sumptuous brunch an hour later. Super easy (though not super healthy), and so much better than other breakfast casseroles I've had. Try it!

Napa Valley

Mr. M and I met his parents and brother in wine country this weekend to celebrate his parents' 45th wedding anniversary. As dedicated oenophiles, much anticipation and planning went into this quick weekend trip.

We arrived Friday afternoon and made our way up to Napa. We had no plans until dinner, but it was early enough to start our vacation off right by doing a little wine tasting. We decided just to pick a place along the way. I'd been to Cosentino a couple years back and really enjoyed this friendly, down-to-earth place that makes great wines both in my price range and beyond. So when we saw it, we pulled off the road to do our first tasting. The place was busy, but we still found a place at the long copper bar to taste some of their newest releases. I enjoyed everything we tasted, especially The Poet and the M Coz 2002 and 2003. I honestly think (though I don't begrudge them one bit) that they pour so generously for the tastings in hope that they will get you drunk enough to buy lots of wine or join the wine club. Anyway, it worked for us! And when the purchases had been completed, they poured us even more!!! (I forgot my camera, but here are pics from the web anyway.)



We then went quickly next door to the tasting room housing Napa Cellars and Folie a Deux, having been given coupons for free tastings there. These are pretty much everyday wines you can find at home, and though they were good, they didn't compare to the high-end reds we had just been tasting at Cosentino. The only stand-out was the Napa Cellars Chardonnay, which was surprisingly good. I love the trend towards less oak in the California Chardonnays, and this was a tasty step in the right direction.

We drove all the way to the north end of the Valley to Calistoga, where we stayed at the Meadowlark B&B, the place where my in-laws stayed during a visit in 1988! It was on a beautiful piece of property with mountain views and a quiet mood. They keep huge Hanoverians that they breed and train on the property - one of which is 17 hands high! Wild turkeys also roam the property, providing some interesting entertainment. The breakfasts here were quite notably delicious.

We dined that evening at La Toque. La Toque offers only a 5 course fixed price menu for $98, with 2 or 3 choices at each course. Some have compared it to the French Laundry, and though I wouldn't go that far, there were some good dishes. The kitchen sent us out a few treats, one of which was a "foie gras corndog" - you gotta love it. We tasted some very nice fresh kampachi and a hearty warm tomato soup. The scallops were good, and the seared foie gras was excellent, but how can you really screw that up? A few of the courses I felt were rather lackluster (the turbot and the bass). Unfortunately, after tasting at two (liberally pouring) wineries in two hours, I was in no shape to take part in the wine pairings that La Toque is so famous for (some say they're the best in valley for wine pairing with food), so I can't comment on that. Overall, I think I'd spend the money and go see Thomas Keller. What I think did it for me was the rather stuffy and austere mood in the dining room - almost like everyone was so serious about food that they forgot to have fun while they were eating it.

The next morning, we rose for our morning appointment at Stags' Leap Winery (not to be confused with Stag's Leap Wine Cellars - note the position of the very important apostrophe). It was a gorgeous drive out, and we were ushered into the dining room of a large house for our tasting. There were 9 people including us in the group, and our guide regaled us with the fascinating story of the winery, the grounds, and the families that have lived there. It was nice to actually sit down to taste - much more relaxed. The grounds were gorgeous and quiet - I could have spent hours there. I'm not sure what it is about vineyards that are so relaxing - maybe the orderliness of the rows, the meticulous caretaking that goes on. Whatever it is, I love it.

We tasted some excellent Cabernet at Silver Oak next, which, due to a recent fire, is holding tastings in a rather unattractive trailer. The wines were still excellent, however - we had the 2002 Napa Valley and the 2003 Alexander Valley. Yum.

We stopped by the Oakville Grocery to pick up some sandwiches and snacks for lunch. It was crazy crowded, but lunch was great. Of note - they have an excellent olive bar. Also really good spicy salsa and guacamole.

Our next stop was right next door at Opus One. The winery seems to rise out of the earth like something in a sci-fi movie, and the architecture is modern yet classic at the same time. At $30 per taste, this was a splurge. But we tasted both the '02 and the '03. I am quite sure this was the most high-end wine I've ever put in my mouth. I preferred the '02, but both were fantastic as we sipped them on the upper terrace overlooking the vineyards.





We continued on to St. Supery. By this time we were all a bit wined-out, but we still managed to enjoy their excellent Sauvignon Blanc, Virtu, and Cabernets.

For dinner that night, we hit Wappo Bar and Bistro in Calistoga. It was a cozy, small restaurant with a much more relaxed mood and fun atmosphere compared to the evening before - aided particularly by the large double magnum that a nearby table was polishing off. The menu is quite ethnically varied, which usually makes loud alarm bells go off in my head, but it had come recommended, so I kept an open mind. There was Hawaiian poke, French cassoulet, Moroccan tagines, Thai curry, osso bucco. Hmmm. I took a risk and ordered the poke, which actually was more Mexican in style - with jalapenos and avocados, almost a ceviche, but pretty good. I then ordered a tagine with roasted vegetables, lamb kofte, couscous, and harissa sauce, which was also good.

The next morning, we drove to Schramsberg for a tour and tasting. Schramsberg is one of the more notable producers of American sparkling wine and is famous for being the bubbly frequently poured at state dinners and important hooplas at the White House. Our tour guide (whose second job is stand-up comedy - no joke) told us the story of the people and the place, keeping us interested and laughing. He led us through the dark Schramsberg caves, where they age their wine for years before releasing it. The caves were dark and cool and just a bit creepy, with cobwebs falling from the ceiling and a heavy air of history hanging about. We ended the tour in a small room of the cave lit with candelabra and a beautiful table set with champagne flutes and the various wines. We did our tastings here in this dramatic setting. We tasted the 2004 Blanc de Blanc, the '99 J Schram, the Brut Rose, and the 2000 Reserve. Was blown away, especially by the J. Schram and the Reserve. This was definitely my favorite place of the weekend, and it's making me rethink my Veuve Clicquot loyalties.





We had lunch at a forgettable Italian place in Calistoga, with some very basic pizza and pasta. We went on to visit Joseph Phelps, another producer of famous Napa Cabs. Well, if nothing else, this place had some of the most beautiful grounds I've seen. The wines weren't bad either, of course the Cabernet and the stellar Insignia being the highlights. But I think almost anything would taste good while looking at this view.



We ended at Freemark Abbey, partaking in an unusual vertical tasting of 3 different cabs of different vintages. Also good, but I was out of steam by then.

We did visit Dean and DeLuca twice while we were there - a place I could browse in for hours at a time. I bought a delicious TK (read: Thomas Keller) Oreo cookie at the bakery, fresh in from Bouchon.

We had the best dinner of the trip that night at Terra. The dining room walls are hewn stone, giving it a rustic atmosphere, but the mood was festive. Our waiter was very knowledgeable about the menu, taking lots of time to make sure we understood the components of each dish. I chose the hamachi sashimi starter, which was excellent - generous slabs of fresh, flavorful fish dressed lightly in a vinaigrette and garnished with radish and a small green caviar. Beautiful. I also tasted the beef carpaccio, which was very good, and the lobster chowder with sweet corn, which was in the top 5 soups I've ever tasted. Great lobster flavor in the soup, and whole kernels of sweet corn bursting in the mouth. For the entree, I chose (surprise, surprise) the broiled black cod with accompanying shrimp dumplings. It was phenomenal, perfectly cooked. I had a couple glasses of a syrupy chardonnay that complemented the meal very well. Finally, I had the maccha green tea pannacotta with fresh strawberries. Another perfectly executed, interesting, and wonderful course. We had a bottle of 2004 Schramsberg Blanc de Blanc with dessert, toasting mom and dad's 45 years of marriage. A fitting end to a wonderful weekend.

Go Rockies!!

Congrats to the Rockies for their playoff sweep and the chance to play the World Series. I freely admit that I don't follow sports of any kind, but it's hard not to get caught up in the frenzy that has enveloped our city. My sister, a former psychology major in college, sent me this very interesting article about being a sports fan.

It's a good read. I'm definitely BIRGing.

Not about food - random funny stuff

My sister, while she was in town, directed us to two funny commercials posted on YouTube. Enjoy!

Sistahs!

My sister came to visit me this past weekend. Even though I don't think we look much alike, I know we are related because of two things. First, even my mom sometimes can't tell us apart on the phone because our voices sound so similar. (Though with the advent of caller ID, we now seldom have the opportunity to play tricks on her anymore...) And second, we are both helplessly addicted to food. We love talking about it, eating it, making it, shopping for it, and dreaming about it. We talk about restaurants, ethnic cuisine, cooking at home, kitchen appliances, farmers markets. We travel all over the world just for food. And whenever we're together, the first thing we plan is our meals.

She is a long time fan of Sushi Den, so that was definitely on our itinerary. We had some incredible toro (of course) and other great sushi while seated at a two-top next to the window. We also had a tasty and spicy brunch at Lola, where they had just rolled out a new menu. The breakfast tacos, though not particularly authentic, were to die for. The weather was not particularly good this weekend, so we stayed home and made a cozy, hearty split pea soup with ham for one of our meals. Then we made homemade strawberry ice cream so that I could convince her that she needed her own ice cream maker for when we go to her place for Thanksgiving. (I'm dreaming of all the possible ice cream flavors already...)

It would have been a shame for her to visit without taking her to Frasca, but I had tried to get reservations without any luck. We hiked Mt. Sanitas one afternoon, trying to work off the buttery fatty tuna we had previously consumed, and while we were in Boulder, we decided to take our chances finding a walk-in spot. Not having planned ahead, we weren't quite dressed for dinner at such a fine establishment, but a quick trip to Ann Taylor Loft and the mall restrooms remedied the situation - so fun! We walked into Frasca, expecting to be seated at the bar, but were instead informed of a late cancellation - a table was available! We were seated next to the Salumi Bar - a prime location for watching the preparation of beautiful plates of cured meats and lovely, mouthwatering desserts. We immediately noticed the beautiful pear tart that sat unassumingly just a yard away, tantalizing us all through the meal.

We ordered the Livio Felluga Tocai Friulano 2006, a bottle recommended by the sommelier. Though my sister, Mr. M, and I all have different taste in wine, this bottle was a crowd-pleaser. We all loved it - it was spicy, apple-y, and big but balanced. Yum. We enjoyed the frico caldo, then each ordered an appetizer. We split all three - the creamy polenta with heirloom tomatoes, cucumbers, and dill; the montasio cheese flan with salsa verde and escolar conserva; and ricotta and sage ravioli with sweet corn and brown butter. All were quite good, but the ravioli was the hands-down favorite.

For our entrees, we did the same thing, sharing all three. We had the Parmesan risotto with rabbit and corn, the roasted leg of lamb, and the sliced pork leg with fingerling potatoes, onions, and pears. To drink, we had the Renato Ratti 2005 Barbera, quite good as well. Again, all the entrees were good, with the favorite being the sliced pork leg - a variation on the same dish I had at my last visit, with pears instead of peaches. We recommended it to the couple sitting next to us, and both of them ordered it (though we left before their entrees came - I hope they enjoyed it too!)

Our dinner ended with a slice of the perfect poached pear frangipane tart with vanilla frozen yogurt and a dusting of white chocolate. Incredibly good. The frozen yogurt was a great accompaniment, its tang complementing the sweetness just right. A couple seated at the salumi bar asked for our impression, and we gave it rave reviews. Hope they enjoyed it too.

Frasca approaches what is for me the perfect restaurant. The service is impeccable and a perfect balance between casualness and professionalism. The atmosphere is understated classy - it feels like a special meal, but it's also a place where you can chat with those seated near you and ask what's good. The wine I've had there is consistently fantastic (though I don't really have the budget to explore the breadth of the wine list). And the food. Well, that goes without saying.

I am still thinking of that meal and will continue to for a long time - not only tof he great food and wine, but also the experience of sharing it with two of the people I love most in this world. There's nothing that can match that in my book.

My sister's coming back to town for Christmas - do you think they're taking reservations for December yet?

In need of bionic eyes

We met another couple for dinner at Il Posto last night. I haven't heard great things about this place, yet it's packed every night! We decided to see for ourselves.

We were seated at the high table by the window. It was a beautiful night, the window was open - loved sitting there. We ordered a bottle of Barbera and chatted until the waiter came over to explain the menu. The menu was written in miniscule print on a very dimly lit chalkboard high up on the wall on the other side of the room. The waiter went over the menu briefly, giving a few recommendations, but once he left it was impossible to read the menu. I asked for a printed menu but was told there were none available. Giving up, we decided just to order what he had recommended.

Most but not all of his recommendations were quite good. We had a crespelline filled with ricotta and caramelized onions - excellent, as well as the stuffed calamari - very good - to start. For the pasta course, we all split the gnocchi with arugula/pistachio pesto and the pappardelle with sausage ragu and oyster mushrooms - both just okay. I ordered the duck, which was very good, and Mr. M enjoyed the black cod. I was stuffed after this, but Mr. M ordered dessert - some sort of squash bread pudding recommended by the waiter that I really didn't like.

All in all, we had a great time with our friends, spending a leisurely 3 hours over dinner on a beautiful night at a great table. But the food was hit or miss, and the menu thing really bugged me. There are too many great restaurants in town - I don't think I'll be back here. At least not for the food.

Bottomless Mimosas? If you insist...

I'm not sure what this says about us (are we really old?), but Mr. M and I love Sunday brunch. We love sleeping in, only getting out of bed when we damn well feel like it, then lazily throwing on some clothes, driving to a restaurant, and letting someone else cook for us, wait on us, and then clean up after us. It seems like the ultimate luxury...

This Sunday we decided to try the new brunch menu at Tula in Cherry Creek. Former home to Papillon, Go Fish Grille, Indigo, and others, Tula is actually my favorite rendition of this space - in both atmosphere and food.

The waitress managed to twist our arms into ordering bottomless mimosas ($7). All of a sudden, we were having a great time!! We ordered the Southwestern Corn Bread - a heavenly combination of sweet, spicy, and savory - mmmm. I had Mexican Eggs, served with a mole enchilada and guacamole. Mr. M had the cleverly named "Green Eggs and Lamb". Both were awesome. Very good. I think. Best I can remember. I really liked the mimosas...

There's a new fish house in town...

Mr. M and I decided to splurge on a midweek date night - dinner and a show. Having heard the raves about Oceanaire recently, we decided to check out their fixed price pre-theater menu. We had tix to the 6:30 showing of "You Can't Take It With You" at the DCPA, so we showed up at Oceanaire bright and early at 5 o'clock. The restaurant is a fish house, but a classy, art-deco, white tablecloth kind of fish house. A row of semi-circular high-backed booths look out over the main dining room, and we were seated in one of these. I loved being able to people-watch as we looked over the menu, sipping on a couple of lovely Sidecars to get us in a celebratory mood.

The pre-theater menu is served from 5-6:30. For $30, you pick 3 courses from a limited selection off the menu. I had a very nice chopped salad followed by a very fresh and perfectly cooked stuffed Dover sole. Mr. M had a bowl of clam chowder and the fish and chips. The portions were generous, and everything was quite good except for the fried fish Mr. M ordered - the batter was mysteriously lacking in salt or flavor. We had a forgettable chocolate mousse and creme brulee for dessert. I won't hold those things against them though, as what I really care about is the fresh fish, which they seem to have plenty of! The regular menu looks fantastic - not cheap, but very tempting. We had the check in plenty of time to walk across the street for the show, but we'll definitely be back another time when we can afford to linger.

BTW, the show was excellent. Go see it before it's over!

Falafel and Friends

A small group of us went to Jerusalem (on Evans down by DU) for dinner last night. We sat on the screened-in patio while stuffing our faces with good Middle Eastern food that comes out almost a moment after you ordered it. Loads of fresh pita bread accompany the meals, and mine (the vegetarian combo) was a smorgasbord of hummus, babaganoush, taboulleh, falafel, rice, fries, stuffed grape leaves, and fatouch salad. YUM! We finished the meal with a decadent honey-soaked baklava. Heavenly. I think overall I prefer Damascus (on South Colorado) because of it's incredible hummus. But Jerusalem is pretty good too.